Romancing the monsoon in Kerala

Deccan Herald sunday travel section published an edited version of this account of a weeks driving trip in Kerala, under the grip of the monsoon, here 


Is Kerala good for a driving holiday in the monsoon? With a week’s time on our hands, a copy of the ‘Lonely Planet’ guide and our decade old car serviced and ready, we decide to find out for ourselves.

There is a certain charm in traveling without a fixed plan. You decide where you want to get to each day, and, when you get there, choose your roof for the night. On some whim or fancy, you change your destination midway. If you like a place, you stay longer; else, you move on.

Aralam River near Iritty

Normally, this freedom and flexibility comes at a cost. You are not certain when you get to a place that you will find decent accommodation, that you will not be overcharged. Traveling with your family, you will not want to take the risk of getting the run around in a strange city.

Here is where traveling “off season” – as we are now doing in Kerala in mid June – is different. There is no need to bother about advance reservations; hotel rooms are available in plenty and you as the customer can even drive a bargain.

So here we are, driving towards Kannur on a wet morning after resting the night in Madikeri. A conscientious hotelier has advised us that a stopover in Wynad will not be much fun in this period. Our plan is to travel the coastal route through northern and central Kerala. The narrow newly carpeted road cuts through the lush

  

Kannur coastline with the lighthouse

forest of the Western Ghats in a steep and continuous descent down to the coastal plain of Kerala. A thick fog cutting down visibility to a few car lengths makes it a nerve tingling drive. We stop by a swollen tributary of the Valapattanam River near Iritty to take in the monsoon view – the swiftly flowing muddy waters, the green bushes and coconut fronds on either side, and the sky laden with thick clouds.

We reach Kannur and head for the Kerala Government Guest house. The parking lot is empty and the hotel deserted. The hotel staff - when we finally locate them -appears surprised to see us. We are brusquely informed that all the rooms are full. This is the only place during this week of travel in Kerala where we are turned away. 

A private hotel nearby is friendly and welcoming and ready to throw in a discount to boot; we take a delightful room overlooking the sea. Looking out from our window, we can see the curve of the coast and the bright red lighthouse. The sea is just a shade darker than the monsoon sky.

That evening we drive to the Muthappan temple in Parassinikadavu, a short distance from Kannur, to witness a Theyyam. The receptionist at our hotel informs us that this is the only place where we can get to see a Theyyam at this time of the year. The temple is located on the banks of the broad expanse of the Valapattanam River.

Payyambalam beach

Waiting for the performance to begin, we are surprised to see a dog stretched out in front of the idol of the presiding deity of the temple. We also notice bronze statues of dogs at the entrance to the temple and a set of giant Kuttivalakkus inside all crowned with the figure of a dog. Dogs are considered sacred here, it appears.

A large but orderly crowd has gathered for the evening performance. The Theyyam dancer, dressed in a grand costume and fantastic makeup, carrying a drawn sword and holding a shield, holds the crowd in rapt attention with his stylized ritualistic dance. At some point in the ritual, the waiting dogs are tossed the prasad, which they eagerly swallow. It is pouring when we leave the Muthappan temple – luckily, we have not left behind the umbrellas.

Maradona, the Sarathi

The next morning, we get to enjoy the vast expanse of the pristine Payyambalam beach. At its far end, the clouds, sea, and sand all take on the same hues. Later, we take a relaxed tour of the Arakkal Kettu, the residence of the former Muslim ruling family of Kannur and St. Angelo’s Fort – originally Portuguese, later rebuilt by the Dutch - overlooking the Mappila bay harbor, crowded with fishing vessels.

We hit the road heading for Kochi, stopping only for the night’s rest at a quaint clubhouse turned budget hotel in Kozhikode, resuming our journey early next morning. We drive on the coastal National Highway, which is a narrow road in these parts, intimate with villages and small towns on its way. The drive is slow but full of interesting sights. We pass a squad of geese goose-stepping on one side of the road, with a man walking behind holding a white flag on a pole. 

It is the season of the world cup and football is literally in the air. Huge billboards in every village and at every prominent intersection, even posters on the back of autos, celebrate the team that is the local fancy. Argentina seem the favorites from the number of posters one sees for them. One striking poster shows Maradona sitting on a chariot holding the reigns of 11 horses.

Mussel fishermen on Vembanad Lake

We enter Ernakulam, conveniently at lunchtime, and head straight for an eatery named Fry’s, a local favorite, to eat what else but sumptuous fried fish. Driving to Fort Kochi, we inspect ‘home stays’, calling in first to enquire on the price. We settle for a cozy room in a nice house overlooking the parade ground. 

There is a slight drizzle, as we step out to explore Fort Kochi. Unmindful of the drizzle, the boys of the Rufous football club are in the thick of their game in the field. We walk around in the rain doing a little shopping, inspecting the Chinese fishing nets, discovering a good place for dinner and it is actually fun. We like the place and next morning inform our host that we will stay another day.

That morning, we decide to take a cruise in the backwaters in and around Vembanad Lake. The clouds disperse showing a deep blue sky as we start on the cruise. Fishermen are out in numbers propelling their small boats with long poles, dredging the lake floor for mussels. The clouds have dispersed showing a deep blue sky.  We stop on an island to taste a mussel dish. It is a perfect day for the outdoors.

Chinese fishing nets in Fort Kochi

The next morning, we drive our car into a ferry that will get us quickly and cheaply to the mainland from Fort Kochi Island. We already have the experience of taking the circuitous road and bridge across the channel. We glide past the giant Chinese fishing nets dotting the Fort Kochi shores that are now drawn up. After disembarking, we stop at a roadside hotel for breakfast. The food – puttu with egg curry – is hot, tasty, and inexpensive. 

We head in the direction of Thrisur. On the way, we decide to take a diversion and visit the Athirapally falls on the Chalakudy River. After Chalakudy town, the road heads up into the Western Ghats and we pass through serene plantations of rubber and jaggery palm.

Athirapally Falls

We walk up to the river just before the falls. The sky is heavy with monsoon clouds. The falls present a truly majestic sight. Nothing like the monsoon, it seems, to bring rivers and falls to life! It has certainly been worthwhile to take this diversion.

Our last halt in Kerala is with family in Ottapalam in the warmth of an old taravad house. With thoughts now on getting back quickly, we choose the road via Salem to return to Bangalore – monotonous in the extreme but fast. 

It has been a short but satisfying holiday.


Afterword 


My thanks to the Indiamike community for all the help extended in planning this trip