Deccan Herald carried an edited version of the following piece on a few days spent in rural Karnataka in its Tuesday supplement, 'Spectrum'
I get up early and enjoy the morning air in the garden, cool, fresh, and invigorating, while waiting for my friends to step out. We walk down to the roundabout that marks the entrance to the town and then take the road heading out.
A few paces on, we come to a bridge that crosses a pretty
river. We have not seen anyone else on the road, but there are the proverbial early
birds for company – a black and white wagtail perched on the railing of the
bridge, a snow-white egret, breeding plumes showing, wading close to the weeds
on the riverbank. Crossing the river, the road
cuts a straight path through fields. Day is yet to break and land, river, and sky appear in muted colors.
We walk through a vast flat expanse of green marked by
strips of brown. It is mid March and green is the color of the just
transplanted paddy, brown earth marking the borders. A light mist veils the
line of trees near the skyline in the far distance, awaiting the heat of the
sun to be dispelled. Occasionally, we pass a field that is flooded, reflecting mirror
like, the trees standing beyond, in the dim and diffuse light.
Presently, we see a group of women and girls, in colorful dress
drawn up to their knees, planting paddy. In the far distance, a farmer is walking
his pair of bullocks harnessed to a plough. Paddy field birds abound - Cattle
Egrets, Pond Heron’s, Black, and White Ibis. A flock of noisy Rosy Pastors has
made a roadside tree with berries their temporary home. By and by, there is
more activity on the road with farmers on cycles and the occasional motorized
two-wheeler. The pale orange globe of the sun is just visible over the line of
trees, as we retrace our path to the guesthouse.
We are in rural Karnataka, in the small town of Suttur,
about 30 kms South East of Mysore. The river flowing by the town is the Kabini,
more commonly called by the beautiful name Kapila in these parts. Suttur is
chiefly known for the Mutt of Jagatguru Sri Shivarathreeshwara, a Veerashaiva
saint and the annual jathra organized by the Mutt, and visited by lakhs
of farmers. While the work that has brought us here is with the local Krishi
Vigyan Kendra, the Mutt has graciously accommodated us in its beautiful
guesthouse.
Last evening, after getting here, our first foray outside
was to the
ghat on the Kapila, just five minutes away. The walk took us
through paddy fields with standing water stretching all the way close to the
river. Stone steps then led down to the river and we sat down to enjoy the view.
Swallows were lined up in a row on an overhead electricity line, biding their
time to swoop down and catch flying insects. A flock of Cormorants, looking out
into the flowing water, occupied a large boulder jutting out from the river. The
Kapila had a gentle flow and looked ever so peaceful reflecting the setting sun
that was forcing itself, though weakly, through the clouds.
This evening, having finished with our meetings, we take a
walk on the road through the fields. The sun disappears and lights up the western
sky in magnificent colors – with brush strokes of yellow orange red and every
shade in between, while above us, the sky is still blue. The water in the paddy
fields turns pink holding a mirror to the sky. Evenings and mornings are truly
to be savored here.
Our stay in Suttur extends over several days and we get the
time to explore. We visit the shrine of Shri Shivarathreshwara and enjoy a free
lunch along with scores of others at the Dasoha Bhavana run by the Mutt.
Hathinaru Kere
Learning of our interest in birds, the manager of the guesthouse
tells us about a lake nearby that attracts local and migratory birds. The kere
(lake) is next to Hadinaru village, about 10 kms from Suttur on the Nanjangud
road. After a pleasant afternoon drive, we come upon the lake, a sizable water
body with an irregular shape, the far corners not even visible.
A villager helpfully guides us away from the metal bund road, along a cart track towards the opposite shore where we can get a closer look at the birds. After covering some distance on the track, we get on to a small path and then eventually make our own way through the vegetation to get near the lake.
A large flock of what seem to be mainly Glossy Ibis – glistening black birds with slender curved bills - is standing in the shallow waters. I badly miss my binoculars. As we get closer, an awkward looking Grey Pelican senses our presence and starts to move away. Another few steps and the Ibis take flight filling the sky with wings.
Little reedy islands stick out of
the lake. On one, there is a clutch of Cormorants looking inward, seemingly
engaged in their own
Panchayat. I can see large flocks gathered in the
further reaches of the lake, but it is too late to walk any further. The sun is
going down and we start making our way back.
Across the metal road from the bund, there is a canal and beyond that, fields in different shades of green, extending as far as the eye can see – restful for tired eyes. This is rich farmland, well irrigated. I turn towards the lake and spot a cluster of colorful birds resembling ducks - with a broad white stripe above the eye and blue in their wings. I later identify these as Garganey, winter visitors, which Salim Ali informs, fly all the way from
Northern Europe, and other similar latitudes to escape the harsh winters.
The sun has now become a disc of fire
behind a tree. We have barely sampled the rich variety of birds that the lake hosts
and it is time to leave. In Hadinaru Kere, we have chanced upon a quiet haven
for the serious bird watcher, free of the noise and bustle of tourists who
throng its illustrious neighbor, Ranganathittu.
Dewara Mara
On another day, we make a stop on the roadside near the town
of
Chikkahalli on our way to
Mysore
on the T. Narsipura road. Crossing a living fence, we enter a large plain
field, in the middle of which stands this gigantic banyan tree, which the local
residents refer to as the
Dewara Mara (Gods Tree). The tree is believed to
be over 200 years old and covers an area more than an acre.
Dewara Mara
has a pleasant symmetry about it, its trunks look stolid and its leaves glow with
health, though old it maybe. I have seen other giant trees but none as
beautiful as this.
Looking back on our trip to Suttur, I think of the many
places that we could not visit – the ancient Shiva temple at Nanjangud, the
confluence of the Kapila and Kaveri at Narasipura, the sands of Talakad with
their buried treasures. And the many questions that we did not ask - like who
decided to shorten the beautiful name Tirumakudalu to T in T. Narasipura. All
this of course means that we will come to see the Kapila again.
