Gentle flows the Kapila

Deccan Herald carried an edited version of the following piece on a few days spent in rural Karnataka in its Tuesday supplement, 'Spectrum'

I get up early and enjoy the morning air in the garden, cool, fresh, and invigorating, while waiting for my friends to step out. We walk down to the roundabout that marks the entrance to the town and then take the road heading out.

A few paces on, we come to a bridge that crosses a pretty river. We have not seen anyone else on the road, but there are the proverbial early birds for company – a black and white wagtail perched on the railing of the bridge, a snow-white egret, breeding plumes showing, wading close to the weeds on the riverbank. Crossing the river, the road 

cuts a straight path through fields. Day is yet to break and land, river, and sky appear in muted colors.

We walk through a vast flat expanse of green marked by strips of brown. It is mid March and green is the color of the just transplanted paddy, brown earth marking the borders. A light mist veils the line of trees near the skyline in the far distance, awaiting the heat of the sun to be dispelled. Occasionally, we pass a field that is flooded, reflecting mirror like, the trees standing beyond, in the dim and diffuse light.

Presently, we see a group of women and girls, in colorful dress drawn up to their knees, planting paddy. In the far distance, a farmer is walking his pair of bullocks harnessed to a plough. Paddy field birds abound - Cattle Egrets, Pond Heron’s, Black, and White Ibis. A flock of noisy Rosy Pastors has made a roadside tree with berries their temporary home. By and by, there is more activity on the road with farmers on cycles and the occasional motorized two-wheeler. The pale orange globe of the sun is just visible over the line of trees, as we retrace our path to the guesthouse.

We are in rural Karnataka, in the small town of Suttur, about 30 kms South East of Mysore. The river flowing by the town is the Kabini, more commonly called by the beautiful name Kapila in these parts. Suttur is chiefly known for the Mutt of Jagatguru Sri Shivarathreeshwara, a Veerashaiva saint and the annual jathra organized by the Mutt, and visited by lakhs of farmers. While the work that has brought us here is with the local Krishi Vigyan Kendra, the Mutt has graciously accommodated us in its beautiful guesthouse.

Last evening, after getting here, our first foray outside was to the ghat on the Kapila, just five minutes away. The walk took us through paddy fields with standing water stretching all the way close to the river. Stone steps then led down to the river and we sat down to enjoy the view. Swallows were lined up in a row on an overhead electricity line, biding their time to swoop down and catch flying insects. A flock of Cormorants, looking out into the flowing water, occupied a large boulder jutting out from the river. The Kapila had a gentle flow and looked ever so peaceful reflecting the setting sun that was forcing itself, though weakly, through the clouds.

This evening, having finished with our meetings, we take a walk on the road through the fields. The sun disappears and lights up the western sky in magnificent colors – with brush strokes of yellow orange red and every shade in between, while above us, the sky is still blue. The water in the paddy fields turns pink holding a mirror to the sky. Evenings and mornings are truly to be savored here.

Our stay in Suttur extends over several days and we get the time to explore. We visit the shrine of Shri Shivarathreshwara and enjoy a free lunch along with scores of others at the Dasoha Bhavana run by the Mutt.

Hathinaru Kere

Learning of our interest in birds, the manager of the guesthouse tells us about a lake nearby that attracts local and migratory birds. The kere (lake) is next to Hadinaru village, about 10 kms from Suttur on the Nanjangud road. After a pleasant afternoon drive, we come upon the lake, a sizable water body with an irregular shape, the far corners not even visible. 

A villager helpfully guides us away from the metal bund road, along a cart track towards the opposite shore where we can get a closer look at the birds. After covering some distance on the track, we get on to a small path and then eventually make our own way through the vegetation to get near the lake.

A large flock of what seem to be mainly Glossy Ibis – glistening black birds with slender curved bills - is standing in the shallow waters. I badly miss my binoculars. As we get closer, an awkward looking Grey Pelican senses our presence and starts to move away. Another few steps and the Ibis take flight filling the sky with wings.

Little reedy islands stick out of the lake. On one, there is a clutch of Cormorants looking inward, seemingly engaged in their own Panchayat. I can see large flocks gathered in the further reaches of the lake, but it is too late to walk any further. The sun is going down and we start making our way back.

Across the metal road from the bund, there is a canal and beyond that, fields in different shades of green, extending as far as the eye can see – restful for tired eyes. This is rich farmland, well irrigated. I turn towards the lake and spot a cluster of colorful birds resembling ducks - with a broad white stripe above the eye and blue in their wings. I later identify these as Garganey, winter visitors, which Salim Ali informs, fly all the way from Northern Europe, and other similar latitudes to escape the harsh winters.

The sun has now become a disc of fire behind a tree. We have barely sampled the rich variety of birds that the lake hosts and it is time to leave. In Hadinaru Kere, we have chanced upon a quiet haven for the serious bird watcher, free of the noise and bustle of tourists who throng its illustrious neighbor, Ranganathittu.

Dewara Mara

On another day, we make a stop on the roadside near the town of Chikkahalli on our way to Mysore on the T. Narsipura road. Crossing a living fence, we enter a large plain field, in the middle of which stands this gigantic banyan tree, which the local residents refer to as the Dewara Mara (Gods Tree). The tree is believed to be over 200 years old and covers an area more than an acre. Dewara Mara has a pleasant symmetry about it, its trunks look stolid and its leaves glow with health, though old it maybe. I have seen other giant trees but none as beautiful as this.

Looking back on our trip to Suttur, I think of the many places that we could not visit – the ancient Shiva temple at Nanjangud, the confluence of the Kapila and Kaveri at Narasipura, the sands of Talakad with their buried treasures. And the many questions that we did not ask - like who decided to shorten the beautiful name Tirumakudalu to T in T. Narasipura. All this of course means that we will come to see the Kapila again.