North East Road Trip - 1: Gandikota - Vijaywada - Rajahmundry - Araku Valley - Chilika - Chandipur

Day 1, December 27 2022

Finally off on our Odyssey! Left as planned at 7 am sharp.  Stopped for breakfast at the hugely popular Nandi Uphaar, though it was not a patch on our old favourite, Sri Krishna Inn.

A cloudy misty morning turned into blue skies with puffy white clouds after about 2 hours.  Some really nice vistas as we headed into Andhra. At times it felt like we were in a huge bowl, or a huge thali rimmed with low rocky hills. The hills looked like a child had clumsily put rectangular blocks together. Plenty of water bodies, but altogether adrier feel than the more lush western parts of southern India. This is the Rayalseema region.  Groundnuts and sunflower seem to be two products of the region. There was even a Groundnut University in Kadiri.  A traffic jam in Kadiri set us back by about 15 minutes. But it gave a chance to observe some interesting political hoardings.  I was surprised at the patience of the motorists here, compared to Bangalore. Everyone mostly waited patiently, and no honking.    

Passed by the town of Puluvendalu. Clearly the bastion of the current Chief minister, judging from the incongruously wide roads lined with shade trees, and the numerous statues of his father all

Arrived at our first destination, Gandikota in Kadappa district, at the comfortably early time of 2.30 pm. As expected, the government run Haritha hotel is a great property, right near the main tourist spots, with a sprawling campus. But one can see why there is hardly anyone staying here. No towels or soap or drinking water. No hot water. And the AC made enough noise to drive one mad, nor could the AC be turned off! When we called someone to fix it, he climbed on the bedside table, gave it several hard knocks, and it quietened down, but only temporarily.

However, the visit to the Gandikota fort was rewarding. Not so much for the fort itself but for the views of the Penna river defiling through a stunning sandstone canyon and then spreading out into a broad reservoir formed by  the Mayilavaram dam. There were scores of tents pitched on the cliff top. 61Obviously, the thing to do is to sleep overnight in them and wake up to watch the sun rise over the canyon.

Penna canyon at Gandikota

A last surprise. At the hotel, as we walked back in the dark to our room after dinner, we were amazed to see a small army of cows casually saunter into the sprawling campus to have their dinner of fresh grass. It was quite a sight to see them move silently past us and spread out in the ghostly light.

Day 2, Dec 28:

One of the long drives of this trip, to Vijaywada. The road was mostly smooth and straight and flat, and the sun strong, causing us to feel dangerously drowsy. Luckily a small cup of strong sweet tea at the right time perked us up. From my guess, tobacco seemed to be a major crop in  these parts. We made it in good time, 9 hours. Were rewarded by the beautiful sight of the Krishna flanked by hills, which I remember admiring from the train window on many rail journeys between Delhi and the South. The government run Haritha hotel here too is wonderfully located right next to the river.  Definitely better managed than the previous one.   After much needed baths and tea, we sauntered up and down the promenade between the hotel and the river. The public was there in full force enjoying themselves -- either strolling like us, or going on the river boat cruises, or couples sharing moments of intimacy on the benches of the Berm Park. 

Day 3, Dec 29: 

 

Writing these notes while watching the sky turn a dull red over the sweeping expanse of the Godavari river at Rajahmundry. I could watch this forever.

But this day began with parting the curtains over another great river, the Krishna. Lucky to see these two rivers in one day. Went for a brisk morning walk along the promenade. Packed and left in a slightly more leisurely fashion as the ride before us was not long. 

On the way, stopped at a 6th century rock cut temple at Undavalli within the city limits. Initially, felt that the carvings were a bit crude and worn out. But then, on the upper floor against a side wall came across a 30 foot carving of the reclining Vishnu. Since it was unexpected and in semi-darkness, it took our breath away. There was a host of figures all around Vishnu, but the carvings of two sages at his head and feet were particularly fine. How the artists and craftsmen managed to create these by chipping away at the hard rock amazes me!  There was a lovely panoramic view of the surrounding green fields from the cave.

Arrived at Hotel Le Hospin in Rajahmundry by 2.30. Getting there, we crossed the Godavari, which looked every bit as broad and majestic as the Ganga flowing in the plains and almost equalled the Brahmaputra.

There was a brief drama when it transpired that Kannan had accidentally booked the room for a month later! Luckily we were given a room with a grand view of the Godavari by the obliging manager. 

Altogether it was a more relaxed day with easy driving. But the cumulative tiredness of being the sole driver told on Kannan, who fell into a drugged afternoon sleep and could barely wake up. Our plans to drive down to the river ghat were abandoned, and we are both quite content to sit by the window and take in this magnificent view. The dull red of the sky has now turned to smoky black with twinkling lights in the distance.

Day 4, Dec 30.  

Had a good breakfast at the hotel and set out by 8.30.  Headed to our destination, the Araku valley in the northern part of the state. Also known as the Ooty of AP, for its elevation (about 1000 m) and cooler climate. 

The last 3 hours were spent negotiating a couple of stretches of ghat road and, more difficult, negotiating National Highway 516e, which is (unnecessarily) being widened. The road was quite bad in parts and we were saved from the large clouds of dust only by keeping the windows tightly shut. The Araku valley was surprisingly broad and long. Not lush green like the valleys in the Western Ghats, but mostly under cultivation. It is the home of the Araku tribal people.

Arrived at the the Haritha Hill resort around 4. Again, a beautifully situated property with a heart lifting panoramic view of the the surrounding valley and low hills. But could easily do with a  coat of paint from the outside. The room is spacious and clean with an outsize balcony. But why do they always give only 1 towel for 2 people?  Now awaiting the arrival of our dinner through the good offices of one of the employees -- the local speciality, bamboo chicken.

Day 5, Dec 31:

I am writing the notes for this a day later, as the rhythm of this trip got completely disrupted by the news that Amma had tested positive for Covid in Chennai.  The evening went in a blur of phone calls, messages and anxiety. But I need to record a few things anyway.

When we arrived at our hotel, we had to draw the curtains to block out the bright sun. But by next morning, everything outside the balcony was enveloped in a thick white fog. Had to pull out the jacket and socks. But as soon as the fog lifted at 9.30, the sun was super bright again.  Kannan was eager to find a suitable trek to stretch his legs but that was not to be. Araku  is fast trying to become another Kodai or Ooty, and there are hardly any spaces left for treks, let alone a pleasant walk. Instead we drove through dusty roads to view a "sunrise point" near the village of Magadagu; and then in the evening drove another 30 kms to briefly view a waterfall near Ananthagiri. The ride and the spots really reminded me of the tour of Kodai.

The drive was made more uncomfortable by the competition from hundreds of other determined sightseers and New Year revellers all wanting to see in the new year in this hill station.   Our hotel was chock full of tourists mainly from West Bengal. Kannan and I decided to avoid the cacophany in the dining room and fixed ourselves a perfectly adequate meal of steamed veg, salad and noodles in our room.  From the balcony we watched a graceful dance performance by a group of tribal women for a big group that was being served dinner outside. What do they actually feel, having to perform like this? I was reminded of Hansda Sowvendra Shekhar's superbly titled short story "The Adivasi will not Dance".

Day 6, New Year 's Day 2023.  

Some of yesterday's anxiety was lessened by the news that Amma's fever had gone and that Khanum was flying in from Mumbai tomorrow to take charge. The relief was physical.

Like clockwork, the fog lifted again at exactly 9.30 am. We were all packed and breakfasted and ready to leave. Had a largely uneventful drive through much better roads than the previous stretch. Mostly through AP (what a huge state), entering Odisha with little fanfare just in the last hour.  This is the first time I have ever touched down in this state.

Arrived at the Odisha state-run hotel, which are all called Panthaniwas, at Rambha on the southern edge of the vast Chilika lake. Our colonial style cottage ( complete with a big drawing room and dressing room) also has a nice verandah looking onto the lake at a little distance. Have booked an early morning boat ride.

Day 7, Jan 2.  

Again, am writing this day's record one day late. I find if we do an evening outing, I get too tired to put down my thoughts.

 

Began our free day in Chilika with an early morning motor boat ride out into the lake. We passed by the picturesque but rather absurd island called Breakfast Island. Absurd because the entire island is a one room cottage used in the past by the local maharaja to have a picnic breakfast! The ride was peaceful and enjoyable, but we did not see the dolphins we had hoped to (they congregate in another part of this huge water body apparently) or even  birds.

We spent the day quite happily sitting on the verandah and gazing out at a peaceful pastoral scene dotted with pigs and cattle grazing, with the lake in the distance. A refreshing breeze was there throughout the day. 

We were pleasantly surprised with the courteous behaviour of the staff, boatman and other people here in Odisha. One doesn't like to generalize, but it did seem different from what we have encountered till now. 

Around 3.30 we set out for Gopalpur-on-sea, which was about 90 minutes away. The beach there was crowded with people enjoying themselves, even though it was not a holiday. Was not very conducive to strolling, but just seeing the sea and feeling the water throw itself at my toes does something to lift my spirits. It seems like sunset is getting earlier and earlier as we head north and east, and it was dark when we got back to our hotel.

Day 8, Jan 3.  

Today we left by 6.30 am and drove to Chandipur on the northern Odisha coast. But the highlight of our entire trip so far was a slight diversion to do some serious bird watching at the Mangaljodi sanctuary. Again we met with a very courteous reception from the members of the boatmen and guides association, mainly local people. We were rowed out in a small canoe through

marshlands which are part of the Chilika  ecosystem. What an amazing number of birds! And what a variety, both local and migratory.  Our guide was very knowledgeable, and was in no hurry to wrap up the tour. It was surreal, sitting low in the stationary or slowly moving boat, and just feasting one's eyes on the avian life.  If we didn't have a long drive ahead of us, we could definitely have stayed longer.

Reached Chandipur too late and too tired to even take a look at the sea. Hope to catch a glimpse tomorrow morning, though we have another early start and a long drive ahead of us. The strain of driving is beginning to tell on Kannan. Incidentally, this is the first hotel we have stayed in without a view from the room.  Just as well we have only one night here.  

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