The road to Keylong
August 3rd:
The monsoon is in full swing in Himachal. The overnight bus from Delhi arrives late in Kullu after negotiating market day chaos on the main road in the valley, logjams created by trucks carrying tomatoes and other vegetables.
My destination is Miyar Valley, accessible from the small town of Udaipur. There is no bus for Udaipur from Kullu till 5 am next morning. It is overcast in Kullu and I quickly drop the idea of staying in the valley for a couple of days. The next best option is to catch the 12 pm bus to Keylong and make my way to Udaipur the next day.
I rent a room near the bus stand for Rs 350 to freshen up. A dog behind the toilet seat causes momentary excitement. It cannot be persuaded to move even by its owners; so in the end, I move to another room.The Keylong bus does not turn up at the scheduled time and I am advised to go to Manali. I reach Manali at 2 pm in a local bus. After spending a couple hours in a drizzle in the open, I manage to board the Keylong bus - the same bus that I had been waiting for in Kullu - ahead of most others and get a much needed seat for the long journey ahead.
We make our way slowly towards the Rohtang pass. The mountain slopes look beautiful, a verdant green interrupted by innumerable water falls. I experience a change of mood when we pass an accident site - a car has rammed head on into a truck and a lifeless body is lifted from it into a waiting taxi. My bus driver however shows no signs of being affected. With a big grin on his face he remarks that the car driver must have been stone drunk to do this.
As we move up, the visibility deteriorates and we are literally in the clouds. The drizzle that has been a constant companion abruptly stops on the other side and visibility improves though the sky remains overcast. There is now no road worth the name left between landslides and the cable laying work that is in progress. The workmen, a ragged bunch, inadequately clothed and tooled, battle it out under inhospitable conditions. The road all the way to Kokhsar and then on to Tandi and Keylong is in a terrible state, much worse than it was two years ago when I last traveled on it.
After Kokhsar, we pass the Lahoul end of the under construction Rohtang tunnel. A co-passenger who works at the project site tells me that 2700 m of the 3500 m long tunnel is complete. A private company with foreign collaboration is executing the project. The BRO, according to him, has given a deadline to make in operational by 2024-25!
We reach Keylong after 9 pm. I walk to the nearest hotel - the 'New Geytse' and take a room for Rs 700 a night. Over dinner, I have a relaxed conversation with the hotel manager, a local resident.
I gather from him that the (tourist) 'season' in Keylong is from July to November, the region being snowbound the rest of the year. The guests are mainly travelers on the Manali - Leh road. Lahaul does not get much rain ..... much lower than Kullu - Mandi region, but more than Ladakh. (The Pir Panjals, I presume, hold back most of the monsoon clouds.) Only one crop is possible and consists of vegetables such as cauliflower, potatoes and peas and a staple, barley. During winter months, the only way out from Lahoul is by helicopter - services are available at a subsidized price of Rs 1500 for emergency visits to Kulu.
Khardang Gompa
August 4th:
After spending nearly 24 hrs in buses between Delhi and Keylong, I badly need to exercise my legs - so I decide to stay and walk around Keylong for a day before proceeding to Udaipur. There are several monasteries around Keylong, all situated at commanding heights and offering great views of the valley.
The proprietor of the Pau Gomba Sanju Dhaba near the bus stand where I have a breakfast of alu paratha and dahi briefs me on the merits of the walks to the different Gompas. Khardang looks to be so close, but is a stiff climb as one has to descend to the river before climbing up. Tayul is located in a very beautiful place. However, to get to Tayul, one needs to take a bus ride on one of the buses going towards Darcha and then walk. Sashur can also be reached by a road or a footpath but it is located at a greater height than Khardang.
I decide on Khardang. The monastery is above a village of the same name located on an imposing bell shaped mountain - the Drilbu Ri (bell mountain) - across the Bhaga river from Keylong. I can clearly see it from my hotel window and it does appear quite close.
I make my way along the 'mall' road to the lower end of the market and then take a path that slopes towards the district hospital and the lower part of the town. I am soon walking through fields of cauliflower and potato with young apple trees planted at intervals.
The path slopes down to the narrow gorge of the Bhaga and I catch a glimpse of Drilbu Ri towering above. A narrow pedestrian bridge spans the gorge. On the other side the path climbs up steeply. Looking back, I can see the last row of houses of Keylong perched on the hill dangerously close to where it just falls vertically into the river. I pass more fields of potato with white flowers, with Drilbu Ri in the background. A foreign couple are on the same path.
The path cuts through Khardang village and heads into the fields above it. After a climb with switchbacks, we reach the gompa. A magnificent view of Keylong and its fields awaits us.
Resting for a while at the gompa, I become acquainted with the couple - Christian and Eleanora - who are from Italy. I learn that Christian trained in Physics at Trieste and then switched to the study of the history of Tibetan Buddhism in the Western Himalayas. He has visited Ladakh many times and is also a keen Alpiner. Eleanora is a psychologist and works with differently-abled children. A nun opens the door to the Gompa and after a quick tour, I buy a prayer flag.
We walk down together and have lunch at the dhaba near the bus stand. Over lunch, the Italians invite me to accompany them to another Gompa - the Guru Ghantal on a hill above Tandi - and I accept.
Trip to Guru Ghantal
We catch a 3.30 bus out of Keylong going towards Tandi. The path to Guru Ghantal starts from a small gompa just above the Tandi bus stop. The monk in charge of Guru Ghantal stays down here and does not want to accompany us. Instead he hands over the keys to the gompa and points out the path going up.
We waste precious time searching for the narrow foot path that leads up. Half way up, dark clouds gather and there is also a little rain. A shepherd returning with his flock advises us against going up as there is danger of rain and of falling stones dislodged by the sheep. Christian is very keen to see the gompa and decides to carry on alone while I stay back as I do not have my trekking pole or headlamp with me and descending in failing light will be difficult. Eleanora also stays with me. We enjoy the grand views of the valley in the setting sun.
After a long wait, we spot Christian running down the hill, triumphant. He was able to locate the gompa, get inside and photograph the ancient Tankhas that he had heard were there. From his ascent and descent, it is clear that he is a natural mountaineer. There is a long wait in Tandi for a bus and eventually we are back at by now our favorite dhaba for dinner after which we bid goodbye. The next morning, I catch the bus to Udaipur on the way to Miyar valley.
Sashur Gompa (3400 m)
Aug 12:
Several days later, after completing my planned trek in Miyar valley, I am back again in Keylong after halting the night at Sissu. I have a couple of days left of my holiday and Keylong seems a better place to spend it than rainy Manali.
At my favorite dhaba, Pasang Dolma the proprietor tells me that my Italian friends kept visiting the dhaba for several days after my last visit. It is still early in the day and there is time enough for a trek to Sashur Gompa up on the hillside above Keylong. A paved path leads up from the old bus stand and joins with a motor road at some point. It is a nice walk with lovely views of the Bhaga valley downstream of Keylong. The high point of my walk is a beautiful multi-colored bird I spot and later identify as the European Goldfinch.
Nearing the Gompa, I come across a family plucking pea pods. Occasional potato plants dot the field of peas - apparently leftover from last years crop. The farmers rotate between peas and potatoes on alternate years. Inorganic fertilizer usage is necessary, the farmer tell me, for a good crop. Pesticides are also used, but he avers, only in small quantities here, as they have to guard against only one or two pests. The seeds used come from lower hills like Kulu. Apparently the converse is also true - in the lower hills, they use seeds from the higher altitudes for better results.
It is relatively easier to find short cuts during the walk down and I am soon passing through a village located just above the main street of Keylong. I ask a villager why the trees on either side of the path have been truncated. The tree is a wild species of willow, he tells me, and the bark from the branches is used as fodder in winter when all the leaves have fallen. I am reminded of the harsh winter - from November to May - that must be endured by people here.
On the way down I spot two varieties of Laughing Thrush. The birds on the trail and the great views make for a day well spent.
The Kora of Drilbu Ri
Aug 13:
This, the best trek around Keylong is described in my next post : The Kora of Drilbu Ri
August 3rd:
 |
| Climbing Rohtang |
My destination is Miyar Valley, accessible from the small town of Udaipur. There is no bus for Udaipur from Kullu till 5 am next morning. It is overcast in Kullu and I quickly drop the idea of staying in the valley for a couple of days. The next best option is to catch the 12 pm bus to Keylong and make my way to Udaipur the next day.
I rent a room near the bus stand for Rs 350 to freshen up. A dog behind the toilet seat causes momentary excitement. It cannot be persuaded to move even by its owners; so in the end, I move to another room.The Keylong bus does not turn up at the scheduled time and I am advised to go to Manali. I reach Manali at 2 pm in a local bus. After spending a couple hours in a drizzle in the open, I manage to board the Keylong bus - the same bus that I had been waiting for in Kullu - ahead of most others and get a much needed seat for the long journey ahead.
 |
| The Chandra near Rohtang |
As we move up, the visibility deteriorates and we are literally in the clouds. The drizzle that has been a constant companion abruptly stops on the other side and visibility improves though the sky remains overcast. There is now no road worth the name left between landslides and the cable laying work that is in progress. The workmen, a ragged bunch, inadequately clothed and tooled, battle it out under inhospitable conditions. The road all the way to Kokhsar and then on to Tandi and Keylong is in a terrible state, much worse than it was two years ago when I last traveled on it.
After Kokhsar, we pass the Lahoul end of the under construction Rohtang tunnel. A co-passenger who works at the project site tells me that 2700 m of the 3500 m long tunnel is complete. A private company with foreign collaboration is executing the project. The BRO, according to him, has given a deadline to make in operational by 2024-25!
 |
| My favorite eating place in Keylong |
I gather from him that the (tourist) 'season' in Keylong is from July to November, the region being snowbound the rest of the year. The guests are mainly travelers on the Manali - Leh road. Lahaul does not get much rain ..... much lower than Kullu - Mandi region, but more than Ladakh. (The Pir Panjals, I presume, hold back most of the monsoon clouds.) Only one crop is possible and consists of vegetables such as cauliflower, potatoes and peas and a staple, barley. During winter months, the only way out from Lahoul is by helicopter - services are available at a subsidized price of Rs 1500 for emergency visits to Kulu.
Khardang Gompa
 |
| Khardang village seen from Keylong |
August 4th:
After spending nearly 24 hrs in buses between Delhi and Keylong, I badly need to exercise my legs - so I decide to stay and walk around Keylong for a day before proceeding to Udaipur. There are several monasteries around Keylong, all situated at commanding heights and offering great views of the valley.
The proprietor of the Pau Gomba Sanju Dhaba near the bus stand where I have a breakfast of alu paratha and dahi briefs me on the merits of the walks to the different Gompas. Khardang looks to be so close, but is a stiff climb as one has to descend to the river before climbing up. Tayul is located in a very beautiful place. However, to get to Tayul, one needs to take a bus ride on one of the buses going towards Darcha and then walk. Sashur can also be reached by a road or a footpath but it is located at a greater height than Khardang.
 |
| The narrow gorge of the Bhaga |
I make my way along the 'mall' road to the lower end of the market and then take a path that slopes towards the district hospital and the lower part of the town. I am soon walking through fields of cauliflower and potato with young apple trees planted at intervals.
The path slopes down to the narrow gorge of the Bhaga and I catch a glimpse of Drilbu Ri towering above. A narrow pedestrian bridge spans the gorge. On the other side the path climbs up steeply. Looking back, I can see the last row of houses of Keylong perched on the hill dangerously close to where it just falls vertically into the river. I pass more fields of potato with white flowers, with Drilbu Ri in the background. A foreign couple are on the same path.
 |
| Drilbu Ri (Bell mountain) |
Resting for a while at the gompa, I become acquainted with the couple - Christian and Eleanora - who are from Italy. I learn that Christian trained in Physics at Trieste and then switched to the study of the history of Tibetan Buddhism in the Western Himalayas. He has visited Ladakh many times and is also a keen Alpiner. Eleanora is a psychologist and works with differently-abled children. A nun opens the door to the Gompa and after a quick tour, I buy a prayer flag.
 |
| Keylong from the path to Khardung |
Trip to Guru Ghantal
We catch a 3.30 bus out of Keylong going towards Tandi. The path to Guru Ghantal starts from a small gompa just above the Tandi bus stop. The monk in charge of Guru Ghantal stays down here and does not want to accompany us. Instead he hands over the keys to the gompa and points out the path going up.
 |
| Keylong from Khardang Gompa |
 |
| View of Tandi from Guru Ghantal hill |
After a long wait, we spot Christian running down the hill, triumphant. He was able to locate the gompa, get inside and photograph the ancient Tankhas that he had heard were there. From his ascent and descent, it is clear that he is a natural mountaineer. There is a long wait in Tandi for a bus and eventually we are back at by now our favorite dhaba for dinner after which we bid goodbye. The next morning, I catch the bus to Udaipur on the way to Miyar valley.
 |
| Bhaga downstream of Keylong |
Aug 12:
Several days later, after completing my planned trek in Miyar valley, I am back again in Keylong after halting the night at Sissu. I have a couple of days left of my holiday and Keylong seems a better place to spend it than rainy Manali.
At my favorite dhaba, Pasang Dolma the proprietor tells me that my Italian friends kept visiting the dhaba for several days after my last visit. It is still early in the day and there is time enough for a trek to Sashur Gompa up on the hillside above Keylong. A paved path leads up from the old bus stand and joins with a motor road at some point. It is a nice walk with lovely views of the Bhaga valley downstream of Keylong. The high point of my walk is a beautiful multi-colored bird I spot and later identify as the European Goldfinch.
 |
| European Goldfinch on a Thistle |
Nearing the Gompa, I come across a family plucking pea pods. Occasional potato plants dot the field of peas - apparently leftover from last years crop. The farmers rotate between peas and potatoes on alternate years. Inorganic fertilizer usage is necessary, the farmer tell me, for a good crop. Pesticides are also used, but he avers, only in small quantities here, as they have to guard against only one or two pests. The seeds used come from lower hills like Kulu. Apparently the converse is also true - in the lower hills, they use seeds from the higher altitudes for better results.
It is relatively easier to find short cuts during the walk down and I am soon passing through a village located just above the main street of Keylong. I ask a villager why the trees on either side of the path have been truncated. The tree is a wild species of willow, he tells me, and the bark from the branches is used as fodder in winter when all the leaves have fallen. I am reminded of the harsh winter - from November to May - that must be endured by people here.
On the way down I spot two varieties of Laughing Thrush. The birds on the trail and the great views make for a day well spent.
The Kora of Drilbu Ri
Aug 13:
This, the best trek around Keylong is described in my next post : The Kora of Drilbu Ri
You have explored the valleys of Lahaul passionately. Wonderful reading all these posts.
ReplyDeleteI explored these trails in 2013, and your treks remind me of my journeys in the valley. I am headed there again next year, to climb the Drlibu.