North East Road Trip - 4: Hayuliang, Walong, Dong

Day 21, Jan 16.  

It rained a good part of the night and early morning, the drops drumming fiercely on the tin roof.  There was not much incentive to do anything, but as the rain eased off a bit, we managed to get a good 50 minute walk in the quiet residential area.  Stopped to take a photo of a charming traditional style house.  One of the residents, who was driving out, stopped and got off his bike to chat with us. He warned us about people who drink and drive to the Mayudia pass, resulting in many accidents.

What Mibo Homestay lacked in conveniences (garbage bin, plug points, mirror, soap, etc) was made up for by the friendly charm of the hostess, the local agricultural development officer.  We had breakfast in her dining area in the centre of which was a large fireplace with a hearty fire burning. She herself had studied in an agricultural college in Maharashtra, and now two of her four daughters were getting coaching for MBBS entrance exams in Guwahati.

Reconciled to trying to make the best of a rainy day, we settled for a drive. We headed for a point from which to get a good view of the Lohit river, about two hours away, with the idea of then heading back to a different homestay in Roing. Instead, a chance encounter with a couple of persons coming from the opposite direction inspired Kannan to make a sea change in our plans. We just drove on, past the viewpoint, to Hayuliang, with the plan to drive on the next day to Walong.  I must say I was a little nonplussed, as I don't take well to plans being changed last minute.  But there was nothing to do but make the best of it. The road was as inexecrable as we were told it would be. But by now we are getting used to long stretches like this in Arunachal.

Staying in a somewhat seedy hotel in Hayuliang, the only place to stay here. An evening walk down the main road pepped us up a  bit, and turned out to be quite useful too. Got a half bottle of McDowell's brandy for just Rs 50, bought a pair of gloves for my freezing fingers, and also got a phone problem fixed. At the far end of the market stretch, were rewarded with a lovely view of the Lohit river in the late evening light.

Day 22, Jan 17.  

Left for Walong in the morning. The road was a vast improvement on yesterday. Reached around 12 noon only to find out that the one homestay we had heard of was full.  Another one up the road was pointed out to us, and that's where we are  now. A huge room with no windows but traditional bamboo matting on the walls, attached to an even larger parlour room with a big fireplace at one end.  We had the whole building to ourselves. The surprise was finding that the young Assamese who seems to do everything in this place, from getting you the room, to cooking and fetching provisions in the market, speaks fluent idiomatic Tamil!  Even offered to make sambar for us for dinner.

He had spent three years in and around Chennai working at various factory and other jobs. Left due to the lockdown and now doesn't want to go back.

 

Walong is supposed to be the easternmost town in mainland India. But it is also known for being a major site of action during the  1962 war, and was actually occupied by the Chinese for a couple of months.  Between here and one of the closest villages to the border, Kibbithu, there are numerous army camps and establishments. None of them seem particularly paranoid about us tourists wandering around.  But of course, we tried not to cross any of their red lines.   On the way to Kibbithu we came across a small shrine type of memorial put up in honour of the Sikh, Kumaoni and Gorkha regiments at Namti plains where major fighting took place.

Day 23, Jan 18.  

Slept with all my clothes on last night, felt so cold. My clock thermometer registered 10.3 degrees this morning. A very large room with little furniture is not conducive to warmth. 

We finally got the trek we were looking for. Asked for a local guide and set out with him for Dong village, which is the starting point for a climb to see a sunrise point. But I didn't have the grit to get up at 2 am and leave at 3, so we opted to start out around 7.45 am.  It was a truly glorious day, with the sun out in full and a cerulean blue sky. Saw a hot springs near Dong, and then for the next two hours  walked amidst beautiful scenery along a quiet road smooth enough to let me take my eyes off the ground ahead of me and gaze around. Walked on a hanging bridge over the rushing green Lohit river, and passed some very pretty wild orange trees. The mountains towered around us, and in the distance one could clearly see snow covered peaks. Lifted my spirits. One of the high points of this journey.

 

Returned, had an early lunch and set off for the by now familiar hotel in Hayuliang.  On the way, we were flagged down by a group of youth. A bit apprehensive, we stopped and rolled down the windows. To our surprise, they didn't ask for money, but very respectfully requested us not to stop for a (urine) break till we crossed the next bridge, as they were conducting a kind of pooja in the area. They seemed very gentle and innocent compared to any similar group of youth one may encounter in other parts of the country. 

Day 24, Jan 19.  

Left before 7 am to head back to Pasighat. The hurry was to pass through 2 points on the road which get closed due to road work later in the morning. Just when it seemed like we were making good time, the car went over a sharp edged stone on the road and a whooosh sound told us that it was a puncture!  We pulled to the side, then Kannan heroically set out

to change tires all on his own.  Changing the tire of a heavy vehicle like a Scorpio is no easy job, so we heaved a sigh of relief when the job got done after 1 hour.  Ironically, the puncture took place at one of the most scenic viewpoints en route, and just in front of a small shrine.  Some more hard driving on a terrible road, and then finally the last three hours were like a superhighway.

For most of the last 2 days the beautiful Lohit river had been our constant companion, sometimes frothing white and sometimes a rich emerald green, sometimes way down below us and sometimes running almost parallel with us. Never got tired of looking at it, especially in the upper Lohit valley with the added bonus of soaring mountains, snow peaks and clear blue skies.  Finally, when we reached the plains, like someone who had been charged with escorting us safely through the twists and turns of the hills, it diverged from us and went weaving its way through the flat land to join the Brahmaputra. It was with some regret on my part  that we parted ways near Tezu and entered into the valley of another river, the Dibang.

north-east-road-trip-5 North East Road Trip 1