North East Road Trip - 6: Kamba , Kambu village, Likabali check post

Day 29, Jan 24

We finally commenced our Journey Home! Mechuka was meant to be the end point or high point of our trip, and now we have started our descent back to the plains and with the end in sight. Again, fearing that we may not make it in time through the road closing points, we got up at 4.30 am and left at 5.30 in the dark and bitter cold.  Our hosts were hospitable enough to see us off shivering while we loaded our stuff, buckled ourselves in and slowly reversed out of their gate.  We plunged again into the horrible stretch of road that started right at the exit point of Mechuka.  Luckily, the rest of the ride went pretty smoothly with no major shocks, and we reached the familiar Island Resort at Kamba before 2 pm.   

We were actually early, and so we had to cool our heels at a couple of places en route waiting for the road to be opened. But these stops afforded the chance to engage in nice conversations with others.  I had a long chat with a man from Aalo working in the Jal Jeevan Mission who had studied in the South. We talked about the development that is coming into Arunachal, the lack of educational opportunities here, and the ignorance of other Indians about Arunachal. This last point was also made by a young student who was chatting with Kannan. These conversations usually begin with someone asking where we are from, and then expressing amazement on hearing that we have driven all the way from Bangalore.  Almost always, we have found a friendly and lively interest as well as great courtesy on their part.

Last time we came to the Island Resort at Kamba, it was drizzly and cold, but this time we arrived to find sunshine and warmth. It was a balm for our frozen selves, and we could feel ourselves thaw. For the first time since we entered Arunachal, I actually wanted to have a full head bath.  It was nice to meet our young host Bharati again, to see the dogs, cat and cows, and to get big  welcoming smiles from the young boys working here. Almost felt like coming home. Shed some layers of clothing and enjoyed walking around without shivering.  Even though it was a weekday, there were 2-3 groups of people picnicking, playing music and strolling around. Particularly nice to watch was a group of 4 young women who laughed and danced almost continuously and without any inhibition to loud music, mostly retro Bollywood.  No one stared or ogled them, even though there was another group of young men enjoying themselves nearby. It would be hard to imagine that in some other part of the country. From the little that I have seen, women here clearly have the right to enjoy themselves in public unescorted.

Day 30, Jan 25. 

Our last full day in Arunachal.  Devoted mainly to making onward bookings till the end of the trip, and washing and drying certain essential items of clothing, taking advantage of the mellow sunshine.

In between, however, from noon to about 4 pm, we had what was perhaps the most interesting and unusual experience of our time in Arunachal.  Bharati arranged for her young chacha to take us on a visit to their village (or basti, as they call it) at nearby Kambu. To get there, I had to overcome my fear of crossing a fairly long  hanging bridge. Our guide Ninu met us on the other end and we walked uphill to the village.  Very picturesquely situated and neat and clean.  Mostly old style houses made of bamboo.  One structure was a hall for their community meetings.

Shyom river near Kambu village

The real surprise was that Ninu just walked us into a celebration of the first birthday of the son of one of his relatives. Whoever from the village was not working elsewhere at the time was there. It was a regular community affair, with all the women together cooking and serving.  We were touched by the sincere warmth  with which we were greeted as people shook hands and made us feel very welcome.  Were served apong, as rice beer is called. Also numerous servings of mainly fish or chicken delicacies. There was both the mandatory birthday cake and singing of "happy birthday to you" as well as the singing of traditional songs. Several people got up and spoke. We couldn't understand, but guessed that they were conveying their good wishes to little "Mr. Bingam Ninu", a good tempered and unflappable baby who didn't seem to mind being passed from hand to hand.  What we thought would be a brief visit stretched on, as none of the participants seemed to be in a hurry to leave, and neither did our guide Ninu. He told us that it would carry on until the night.  Quite different from our city celebrations. Eventually, several glasses of apong later, we took our leave. Ninu became quite emotional when he saw us off at the hanging bridge, asking us to call him from time to time when we returned to Bangalore.  There is a simplicity about many of the people we have come across here. It's a quality you don't find much elsewhere anymore.

Day 31, Jan 26.  

Our travels in Arunachal ended today. Instead of retracing the Aalo to Pasighat route, which we were getting tired of, we took a different route to the Likabali check post. On the way in the early morning we passed a couple of Republic Day parades taken out by schoolchildren, carefully marshalled by their teachers, vigorously shouting "Bharat desh hamara hai" and such slogans.

Like practically all the roads we have travelled on in this state, this one too had its great stretches, its passable stretches, and its downright awful stretches. We went up and down at least 6 hills before we reached the end, and sometimes we were quite literally in the clouds. A key problem in getting anywhere by road in Arunachal is knowing when, where and for how long they are going to close the road for road work. Sometimes there is no logic to it. You go rushing to try and beat the road closure, only to find out that the road isn't closed. And at other times one goes along blithely only to be stopped unexpectedly.  I expect it will take years before this problem goes away.

Suddenly the hills fell behind us, and we were in Assam.  Felt sorry to leave Arunachal after a full two weeks there.  What will I miss most? Well, the scenery is indeed beautiful. You can sum it up as rivers, valleys, jungles, hills and mountains. But even more, it is hard to find such nice people elsewhere. Friendly, hospitable, curious, courteous, cheerful, non-aggressive, aware -- these are some of the adjectives that come to my mind. On their part,  I think that they were pleasantly surprised that two not-young people from "India" took the trouble to drive all the way from Bangalore in the deep south to see their land.

Will end this section on Arunachal with some snapshot memories: 

green rivers; nested green hills like soaring triangles with blunt tips; orange trees; oranges sold in wicker baskets by the roadside; wild banana trees with red stems covering steep hillsides; crystal clear water springing from the hillsides; rock falls; early nightfall; rounded riverbank stones of all sizes; thatched roof houses on tall wooden stilts; Donyi Polo flags, a red sun against a white background; men wearing straw hats, women wearing beautiful woven sarongs; older men and women wearing a sheathed dao on a belt slung across the shoulder; little children and babies with big black bindis on their foreheads; dogs with furry curled tails, affectionately treated by humans; elegantly coloured Mithun cattle; mist and clouds like unrolled cotton wool; bamboo, bamboo and more bamboo; lightly spiced boiled food, good for health and easy on the digestive system; apong (rice beer); hanging bridges; families and friends gathered around hearth fires.... 

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